Simple Socks

This is another pattern I got from somewhere else and modified to fit my own tastes. Okay, I didn’t modify it to fit my tastes, I modified it because they had so many typos, I decided to re-write it correctly. I don’t mean mis-spellings, either… They had the instructions flat out wrong in several areas, and if this is your first time knitting socks (as it was mine) correct instructions are crucial. Fortunately, I was able to stumble my way through after reading through many comments, and fix what needed fixing. I also clarified a few points. If there are any questions or typos, PLEASE comment and I will do my best to fix them. No, I don’t feel guilty about almost-not-quite copying the pattern because they refuse to fix the problems in their [free] pattern. That’s big business for you, I guess. (Yep, it was a big business site) I will add a picture as soon as I’m done with my most recent pair of socks.

Simple Socks, Top-Down Free Knitting Pattern


US1 DPN, or size needed to obtain gauge
Sock Yarn


8 stitches and 10 rounds = 4 inches square in st st


K- Knit
P- Purl
RS- Right Side (knit stitches of work facing you)
WS- Wrong Side (purl stitches of work facing you)
sts- Stitches
Sl1- Slip One (Slip stitch knit-wise onto Right hand needle)
p2tog- Purl two together
ssk- Slip Slip Knit. (Slip two stitches onto right hand needle, then use Left needle to knit in back of stitch


Cast on 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts using a stretchy cast on. I use this one:
Distribute stitches evenly across 4 needles.

1) Cuff: 

– Place marker at the beginning of round. (I usually place it between the first and second stitch of my work so it will stay on the dpns.
– Work K1P1 Ribbing until you reach the desired length for top of sock. I work 4 rows for ankle-free socks.
– K 4 rounds

2) Heel Flap:

The heel is worked over 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts

  1. Next Row (RS) K 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) sts. Turn work so you are facing the WS.
  2. P across 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts
  3. Row 1 (RS): *Sl1, K1* Rep from *to* across working heel sts.
  4. Row 2 (WS): Sl1, P across working heel sts.
  5. Rep rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) rows total.

3) Turn the Heel

  1. Row 1: K across 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts. SSK, K1, Turn work so you are facing the WS.
  2. Row 2: Sl1, P5, p2tog, P1, Turn work so you are facing the RS.
  3. Row 3: Sl1, K to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), K1, Turn.
  4. Row 4: Sl1, P to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap) P1, Turn.
  5. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until you have worked all heel sts, ending if necessary on the last rep with k2tog and p2tog. 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts remain.

4) Heel Gusset Pick up (Working only with the Heel Flap needles still)

  1. K 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10 sts so sts are evenly distributed across two needles, and working yarn is back in the beginning of the round. (center heel position)
  2. Pick up 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) sts along side of Left heel flap using one of the two heel flap needles.
  3. Rep. #2 for the Right side of the heel flap.

Note: To avoid holes in the joint, feel free to pick up more than the specified stitches. Just be sure to keep an even number of stitches on each needle.

 5) Gusset Decrease 

  1. Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
  2. Needle 2: K all sts.
  3. Needle 3: K all sts.
  4. Needle 4 K1, ssk, K to end of needle.
  5. K sts on all 4 needles.

Repeat Gusset Decrease until until 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts remain, and all sts are once again evenly distributed on needles.

6) Instep

K instep until piece measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.

7) Shape the Toe

  1. Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
  2. Needle 2: K1, ssk, K to end
  3. Needle 3: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
  4. Needle 4: K1, ssk, K to end
  5. K all needles.

8) Rep rounds 1 and 2 until 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts remain.

9) Rep round 1 until 12 (12, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts remain.

10) K to end of needle 1.

11) Cut yarn and graft toe together.

12) Weave in ends, and block if necessary.